How I get my Photos: Basic Editing (on my Android)

So now you have the right gear, you’ve learned how to set up your camera just right, and you found the perfect spot, with the perfect lighting, at just the right time of day, and you nailed it. You got that perfect, amazing photo you’ve always been wanting.

What next? How do you edit it?

For Instagram, I edit almost all my photos on my phone. I am just now getting into more professional editing through Adobe Lightroom on my laptop which I will cover later.

I have an Android phone (Samsung Galaxy S7) and I edit nearly all of my Instagram photos on this phone including ones taken with my DSLR. I use two apps: Snapseed for basic editing, quick fixes, and dramatic effect; and Lightroom Mobile for more detailed work.


Gásadalur, Faroe Islands, edited with Snapseed


Snapseed is a free photo editing tool now owned by Google and essentially their response to VSCO. While VSCO focuses on softer light and quieter tones, Snapseed seems to excel on bold, deep, dramatic edits especially the very popular HDR.

HDR stands for High Dynamic Range imaging and in short tries to emulate to depth of field and clarity seen by the naked eye (with perfect vision). Snapseed has its own adjustable preset HDR filter but also excels at allowing you to create a custom “HDR” setting with their basic manual editing mode.

Snapseed also includes selective mode (select a color on the photo and adjust it), brush mode (use a brush to adjust hues, contrast, exposure, etc), healing mode (“heal” or fix blemishes on your photo), vignette mode (create a vignette or reverse vignette), and more.

Besides HDR, Snapseed offers Drama (dramatic darker HDR effects), Glamour Glow (good for smoothing out faces and skin or creating a mystical slightly blurred effect), Tonal Contrast (adjust specific tones such as lights or darks), and numerous more specific filters (which I never use).

I can edit a photo on Snapseed in about 30-60 seconds most of the time.

Quality is average but by no means perfect. You can clearly see the difference when the photo is blown up to high-resolution compare to one edited on Lightroom.

Update: Snapseed now offers Facial filters, White Balance adjustment, and Text!

Lightroom Mobile:

Gásadalur, Faroe Islands, edited with Lightroom

Adobe now offers Lightroom Mobile free of charge on Android. This is an amazingly powerful app, nearly as good as the full version of Lightroom itself. It does lack a few key tools such as spot remover (Snapseed to the rescue?), but overall is about as complete a tool as one could possibly need for their phone.

Lightroom allows you to import as many photos as you want and edit them in the program without actually saving a copy of the edited photo unless prompted. My guess is that the app simply saves your adjustments as a sort of mask for the original photo, compiling them into an entirely new .jpg image upon saving. This results in far higher quality even with extensive editing then is allowed by Snapseed.

Lightroom has 6 primary modes: Basic, Tone Curve, Vignetting, Split Toning, Color/Black and White, and Dehaze.

Basic covers all your basic and primary needs including White Balance, Temperature, Tint, Exposure, Contrast, Highlights, Shadows, Whites, Blacks, Clarity, Vibrance, and Saturation with an Auto Tone setting as well. With just basic I can do 90% of all my editing.

Tone Curve adjusts the hologram for the image with primary color adjustments or focusing on highlights, lights, darks, and shadows. A bit more advance, it does offer far more specific adjustments than basic and is useful if you can’t get that exact lighting you want with the simpler settings.

Vignetting is fairly self explanatory and does what it should do.

Split Toning is something I haven’t messed with much but its supposed to do what the full desktop version of Lightroom does with Gradients. This is useful if you have an overly bright sky and darker landscape for example.

Color/Black and White adjusts specific black and white settings or specific colors. Lets supose you want to bring out a blue sky. You can adjust the saturation and Luminance (essentially brightness) of all the blue hues in the photo individually without turning up the saturation for everything else. Options include Hue, Saturation, and Luminance in 8 colors each.

Dehaze is one of my favorite options. This setting allows you to increase or decrease the “haze” effect created by the atmosphere as objects increase in distance from the camera. It does tend to make the photo overly blue if overused, but can create quite a nice bold dramatic effect that I can’t normally emulate with just the basic settings.

Lightroom takes me much longer to edit in. Partly because I haven’t developed any presets yet (yes it has a preset option for customizable settings!!!) and partly because I lack the skill at knowing exactly what needs adjusting in my photos. I’d guess about 3-5 minutes per photo.

Update: Lightroom now offers Lens Correction!

So there you have it. The two apps I use for just about every photo on my Instagram. Go check them out and tell my what you think. What apps do you use? What settings? Any tips?

Keep up with my latest adventures and photos 🙂

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Save money by traveling like I do

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Check out the Equipment I use

Nikon D3300
Nikkor 18-140mm Zoom Lens
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II

photography, travel tips

How do I get my Photos: Location, Setting, Timing

So you have your gear and now you are ready to go out and take some awesome shots right? Where to begin?

Start with something you are really interested in. I usually see an amazing photo and think “I want that shot, I want to be there and see that in person”. And than I try to make it my own.

I may get the typical shot at the typical place or I may get something totally unique: which is far more rewarding. Sometimes I don’t get anything good at all.

I love mountains and expansive landscape scenes. So that’s what I gravitate toward. I purposely travel to mountainous spots and schedule hiking and trips around prime landscape scenes. But the location is really up to you and what you love. Don’t do what I do, do what you want and what you love.

Once you’ve found the right location the next task is getting the right setting.

Where do you want to set up your camera? Do you want someone in the photo to add perspective? I personally love having people in my photos. They add a new dimension and personalize the scene. They help tell the story as more than just a generic shot of an amazing scene.

Another aspect of setting is the perspective. Do you want to look down or look up? Do you want to be far away or zoomed in? For me that depends on the scene. I want to include enough of the surroundings to create depth of field so I like to get something close by in the photo. It could be a person, a tree, a cactus. I also don’t want to much detail (although I tend to be bad at accomplishing this) because if your eyes are being pulled in all directions the photo will lose its focus.

Also a part of setting is leading the eye in the direction of the main subject of your photo. This is also something I am learning. I try to find natural aspects of the landscape, a valley or a stream works perfectly, to leave the eye in the direction of the horizon.

Finally, you need to find the right timing. Usually the golden hours around dawn and dusk are best. However, on a cloudy day you can shoot almost any time (I love clouds, they have saved many an otherwise mediocre photo). Or if you are far north in the summer you may find that each day gives you 6-8 golden hours giving much more time to get that perfect shot.

You may want to wait for a cloudy day to create a stormy dark feeling. Or a perfect sunset to illuminate your subject. Timing is perhaps the most important aspect. For me cloudy days are best especially those ominous snow storm clouds that completely coat the sky with 3-dimensional grey contour.

Have some tips of your own? Please share them below. I’m not the expert! I’m here to learn just like you 🙂

Keep up with my latest adventures and photos 🙂

Follow JELTOWN on Instagram, FacebookTwitter and now on YouTube!

Save money by traveling like I do

$35 off your first Airbnb booking!

Check out the Equipment I use

Nikon D3300
Nikkor 18-140mm Zoom Lens
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II


camera, photography, travel tips

How I get my photos: Camera Settings

So you have all your gear now. How do you set up the camera?

I almost always use manual mode on my D3300. I can be way more specific and have much greater control over the outcome this way. I find that auto tends to overexpose things.

I do use the Auto setting for my White Balance quite often, especially if I’m having trouble getting the correct balance with the presets. However, play with this, because sometimes the Auto setting doesn’t get things quite right you will end up with an overly red or overly blue photo.

The manual mode has 3 primary functions you can adjust: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.

I try to use the lowest ISO possible (100 for my camera) to reduce the amount of grain in a photo. Sometimes I go higher if I need a quick shutter speed in a darker situation.

Aperture basically determines whether you are focusing on a very narrow and specific depth of field (lower numbers) or focusing on a larger range of distances (higher numbers). Lower aperture lets in more light (thus you can use lower ISO and fast shutter speeds) and is good for focusing on one specific item while keeping the background and/or foreground blurry.

For a standard landscape photo I use an aperture somewhere between 8 and 11. This allows me to keep the ISO at 100, keep the shutter speed fast enough that I don’t need a tripod, and still get the entire landscape, both near and far, in focus. When trying to get a long exposure I will turn the aperture up to 22 to reduce the light coming in so I can decrease the shutter speed without over-exposing the photo.

Shutter speed determines how long the photo absorbs light. I like long shutter speeds to blur water, take in stars, and give a dreamy soft light feeling to my photos. However, this requires a tripod or something sturdy to set your camera on, much more time, and compensation if it is bright out (a dark filter for example). Quick shutter speeds (1/400) are good for motion that you want to stop in mid-air (my classic jumping photos on my Instagram are taken like this).

I have recently been using an extra dark filter, 30+ second exposure, 100 ISO, and an aperture of 22 to capture some fantastic dusk photos with soft ambient lighting and blurred water (see the photo featured in this post).

Keep up with my latest adventures and photos 🙂

Follow JELTOWN on Instagram, FacebookTwitter and now on YouTube!

Save money by traveling like I do

$35 off your first Airbnb booking!

Check out the Equipment I use

Nikon D3300
Nikkor 18-140mm Zoom Lens
Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8 AT-X116 Pro DX II